tomato chevre tart

tomato chevre tart // brooklyn supperSummer’s grace has descended here in Virginia. The seventeen-year cicadas are gone, but regular old ones hiss from the lush green trees, fireflies dot the evenings, and the first fruits and vegetables are ripening in our tiny garden. We’ve had a stretch of rainy days, and that’s felt right––a sort of nature-imposed time of reflection just ahead of the season of sweltering abundance.

And the tomatoes have arrived. [Read more…]

now in season: chive blossoms + fried rice with turnips & chive blossoms

chive blossoms // brooklyn supper

Brian and I are absolutely heartbroken over the events in Oklahoma yesterday and our hearts and thoughts are with all those who have been touched by this awful tragedy. We are especially saddened by the losses at the Plaza Towers Elementary School, though amazed at the bravery shown by teachers, staff, and young students there. If you’d like to help those affected, here are some ways to give.

Chive blossoms have always been harbinger of the season, their purple blossoms heralding the advent of warmer weather. This year, though, the chive blossoms are even more significant. These chives sprouted on our rooftop garden in Brooklyn, and by the time we moved the chive-filled window boxes into the truck, they had a spray of tiny purple buds. Now we’re in Virginia, the chives are blossoming and it feels right. They’ve made the journey and so have we. [Read more…]

now in season: ramps

now in season: rampsStrictly speaking, ramps (also known as wild leeks) are not really the first food of spring (young greens or broccoli are also growing right now), but they’re the spring produce that gets home cooks and restaurateurs alike totally amped for reasons that remain mysterious. Perhaps it’s the romance of foraging rather than farming. Or it may be that because they aren’t imported or grown in hothouses, they’ve been absent for long enough to make us miss them. [Read more…]

roasted black radish and grape quinoa

black radishes // brooklyn supperSometimes seasonal food writing, here on the east coast especially, feels like a tour of the very homeliest food stuffs; and among the rutabagas, parsnips, jerusalem artichokes, celery roots, cabbages, and all the other misshapen, sun-starved vegetables that tide us over until the sun comes back for real, the black radish feels forgotten. [Read more…]

now in season: redbor kale + kale, butternut squash, and orange salad

redbor kale // brooklyn supper
redbor kale salad with butternut squash and orange // brooklyn supperOur last CSA share of the year featured a bunch of Redbor kale. I loved its deep purple and green hues and stashed it for a weekday salad–my favorite use for kale. A few days later, I roasted a butternut squash (one of seven to pass through my kitchen in the past month), and supremed an orange to go with it.  [Read more…]